Sunday 17. December 2017
Today I took the bus from El Calafagte to El Chalten. But before that I wanted to go to the bank to get some cash. And what do you know? The ATM at the Banco National de Argentina was empty:-| Well, luckily there are other banks so I didn't have any problems getting cash. Then again, not all banks accept foreign credit cards. So in smaller towns (with less than 10,000 people, I guess) I may happen that cash is not readily available. Ushuaia and Calafate are big enough. Chalten, however, is a small town and cash may turn out to be an issue.
In Chalten it was really windy and the mountains were covered in clouds. With a minivan we drove from town to the place were I'd stay, some 16km outside of Chalten. I'd call it glamping. Two huge dome shaped tents house the reception and living area, the kitchen and the dining room. The "rooms" are smaller versions of these tents with a double bed, bathroom with shower and a small stove. It was really cold today, despite the fire...
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Monday 18. December 2017
According to the park ranger this was supposed to be the best day of the week... During breakfast it really doesn't look that way. Whatever, they know their park so off I go towards Lago los Tres.
At the beginning it's extremely windy but there's reason for hope.
And then I can catch a first glimpse of Cerro Fitz Roy, that's the peak on the right side. Yep, this might turn out fine.
The last kilometer to Lago los Tres is very steep. What I considerred stong gusts of wind was nothing in comparison to up here, wow. And then I'm at the lake and the first gust of wind nearly blows me off the mountain. It's breath taking, literally. But the view is great.
Now I understand why everybody up here is hiding behind rocks. The gusts often reach gale force.
On the way down I can see people falling over now and again due to gusts of wind. What can I say? This is the first time that I'm glad to have a few extra pounds :-) Down on the plateau the gusts are comparatively mild.
What can I say? This could hardly be beat! And then I saw them, Condors. Sadly I missed the right moment to take a picture so they were quite far away. They are hughe, wow!
The later it got the fewer clouds there were in the sky. I had the following view form the dining room...
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Tuesday 19. December 2017
Today I'm recovering form yesterdays hike. The changing weather makes it easy for me...
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Wednesday 20. December 2017
Originally I wanted to go outside today but the wind is blowing quite strong and it rains a lot. Good thing I brought along loads of books...
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Thursday 21. December 2017
Despite changing weather I started my hike to Laguna Torre. From there you have a great view of Cerro Torre, theoretically.
Here's a view of El Chalten, at least 80% thereof. It's a rather small town and every second tourist speaks German... To compensate there are at least two shops where you can rent mountain and camping gear.
Unfortunately the weather is rather inconsistent. Sun is followed by rain, is followed by snow, is followed by sleet, is followed by rain. I don't see the sun for the rest of the day. But at Laguna Torre the weather is perfect ;-)
Despite all bad weather I decide no to walk back to El Chalten but to take the longer route back to my "hotel".
Passing Laguna Hija on the way.
And then I was lucky to see a pair of local woodpeckers looking for food right next to the trail :-)
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Friday 22. December 2017
As I overexcerted myself a little during yesterdays hike I'm having a day off today, despite the good weather :'(
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Saturday 23. December 2017
Today I'm leaving for Bariloche...
However, I messed up my booking because I did it in a rush. Instead of a nice, comfortable cama ejecutivo seat I'm travelling coach today... These are normal busses, similar to Greyhound and the food is the worst. For dinner we're being served two soggy Empanadas, accompanied by a small cookie and artificial pear juice. Breakfast consists of an Alfajore, that's a double cookie, similar to Oreos but bigger. Lunch is basically the same as dinner. Also such things as toilet paper and soap are considered luxury. Good thing I have those things in my shopping bag...
DRouta 40 is similar to a back country road. And if they have a construction site, it's usually a big one. So you're driving for 35km over gravel roads because the asphalt will be renewed. Well, at least I think they will, sometime. Also potholes are there in abundance, more than gas stations. There may be as many as 500km between gas stations.
The rope on the left side is needed to secure the left mirror. You can't see all the cracks in the right windscreen :-)
Luckily I find a free double seat I can get at least a couple of hours sleep. At least until the bus driver cranks up the AC to arctic temperatures... Only after an inquiry he turns it to heating. This games repeats another 2-3 times...
Sunday 24. December 2017
After changing from the big bus to a smaller one we go toward Bariloche.
The plains give way to mountains and lakes.
Around 07:00 p.m. we arrive in Bariloche. At the hostel a nice cosy room will be waiting for me, I'm sure.
Ok, it's tiny and stuffy. There is mold in the bathroom and the window can either be opended all the way or not at all. The bathroom is about 1.5x1.5m and also serves as shower, great... I think I'll depart much earlier than originally planned.
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